Buy all-purpose polyester from a thread maker, not a no-name kit. Gutermann Sew-All and Coats & Clark Dual Duty are the two to know: either one sews most woven and knit fabrics through a 70/10 to 90/14 universal needle. Switch to cotton thread for quilt piecing, and to a heavy thread with a 100/16 needle for jeans and canvas. The table below matches each fabric to a thread and a needle.
Quick picks
| Best all-purpose thread | Gutermann Sew-All Thread, 1,094 yd | Amazon |
|---|---|---|
| Best starter color set | Gutermann Sew-All Thread Set, 20 x 100 m | Amazon |
| Easiest to find, best value | Coats & Clark Dual Duty All-Purpose Thread, black and white | Amazon |
| Budget core-spun pick | Simthread All Purpose Polyester Thread, 400 yd (white and black) | Amazon |
| Best cotton for quilters | Gutermann Cotton Thread Spool Box, 26 spools | Amazon |
| Best for denim, canvas and upholstery | Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Heavy, 4 spools | Amazon |
How we picked
We searched Amazon on October 15, 2026 for sewing machine thread and kept spools with real monthly sales and thousands of ratings. The best sellers were Coats & Clark Dual Duty (3,000+ bought in the past month for the black spool alone), the Gutermann Sew-All 20-spool set (2,000+, with 10,410 ratings) and Simthread's black-and-white pair (2,000+). Every fiber and needle size on this page comes from those listings or from the thread makers' published specs.
We also left out the big 36-color "spool and bobbin" kits that top the sales chart. More on why below.
This is a spec review. We compared listings and published thread specs; we didn't sew test seams with each spool. How we research.
Thread weight vs Tex, and why spool labels disagree
Two numbering systems are on spools, and they run in opposite directions. Weight (wt) is a length: a thread is 40 wt when 40 kilometers of it weighs 1 kilogram, so a bigger number is a thinner thread. Tex is a mass: the grams that 1,000 meters weighs, so a bigger number is a thicker thread. Both definitions are from Superior Threads' thread weight page.
The catch is that "wt" on a label often ignores how many plies are twisted together. Superior notes that a 50/2 and a 50/3 thread were both sold as 50 wt, though the 3-ply is heavier. That's why Simthread can print 30WT on an all-purpose polyester while a Coats cotton listing gives its all-purpose cotton a weight of 30, and Gutermann prints Tkt 100 on Sew-All, which retailers list as Tex 30. Those three spools are close in thickness. A quilting cotton sold as 30 wt by a specialty maker is noticeably heavier.
So: when a spool shows a Tex number, compare that. When it doesn't, go by what the thread is sold for (all-purpose, quilting, topstitching) and by the needle size the maker recommends, which is the most useful number on any thread listing.
Which thread and needle for each fabric
This is the one table to keep. Needle ranges for the named threads come from their listings (Gutermann: universal 70 to 90; Coats XP Heavy: 90, 100 or 110); the rest follow our needle chart.
| Project or fabric | Thread | Needle | Stitch length |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quilting cotton, shirting, poplin | All-purpose polyester, or cotton for quilts | Universal or sharp 80/12 | 2.0 to 2.5 mm (shorter for piecing) |
| Knit tees, jersey, leggings | All-purpose polyester (cotton snaps on stretch) | Ballpoint or stretch 75/11 to 80/12 | Narrow zigzag or stretch stitch |
| Lawn, voile, silky polyester | All-purpose polyester, or a fine 60 wt thread | Microtex or universal 60/8 to 70/10 | 2.0 mm |
| Linen, medium twill, canvas tote | All-purpose polyester | Universal 90/14 | 2.5 to 3.0 mm |
| Jeans hems and topstitching | Heavy or jeans thread on top, all-purpose in the bobbin | Jeans or topstitch 100/16 | 3.0 to 3.5 mm |
| Upholstery, outdoor canvas, vinyl | Heavy polyester (Coats XP Heavy) | 100/16 to 110/18 | 3.0 to 4.0 mm |
| Quilt piecing | Cotton or fine polyester, same in the bobbin | 80/12 | 1.8 to 2.2 mm |
Heavy thread on top with all-purpose in the bobbin is normal for topstitching. Most home machines won't wind or feed a heavy thread well from the bobbin. If loops show up after you change threads, the tension problems guide walks through the fix.
The best sewing machine thread
Gutermann Sew-All Thread, 1,094 yd
The jumbo spool of Gutermann's all-purpose thread. The listing calls it 100% long-staple polyester for hand and machine sewing on natural and synthetic fibers; long staple means longer fibers twisted together, which sheds less lint than short-fiber thread. Retailer listings put Sew-All at Tex 30 (Tkt 100). Gutermann recommends a universal 70 to 90 needle for it.
Buy the big spool in the color you use most (white, black or a neutral gray). At 1,094 yards it will outlast a dozen small spools of the same color.
- Fiber100% long-staple polyester
- Length1,094 yd
- Usehand and machine, natural and synthetic fabrics
- Amazon ratings1,145
Why it stands out
- Long-staple polyester, low lint
- One spool covers most fabrics in your stash
Think twice if
- Your machine's spool pin is short; a jumbo spool may need a thread stand
Gutermann Sew-All Thread Set, 20 x 100 m
The same Sew-All thread in 20 basic colors, and the most-reviewed thread set we found at 10,410 ratings. The listing says it's no-twist and lint free with a silk-like gloss, and gives the needle range outright: universal, size 70 to 90. That's the set to buy instead of a cheap kit when you want colors on hand.
100 meters is about 109 yards per spool, which is enough for a few garments in each color. For colors you use all the time, add a larger spool.
See the photo of all 20 colors in the set on Amazon
before you order, since the listing says "popular basic colours" without naming them.- Fiber100% polyester
- Spools20 x 100 m
- Needle (per listing)universal 70 to 90
- Amazon ratings10,410
Why it stands out
- Name-brand thread in 20 colors
- Needle size stated on the listing
Think twice if
- You only need one or two colors; single spools cost less per yard
Coats & Clark Dual Duty All-Purpose Thread, black and white
Dual Duty is the thread on the wall at most US fabric and craft stores, so it's the easiest to match later. The listing describes a polyester-covered polyester core, which is a core-spun build: a continuous filament inside for strength, wrapped in spun fiber so it behaves like ordinary thread. It's sold for hand and machine sewing on all fabric types.
Coats' Dual Duty XP General Purpose line calls for a 70 to 80 needle, according to QuiltSocial's rundown of the XP weights. The black spool on its own (Dual Duty black, 400 yd) was the single best-selling spool in our search.
- Fiber100% polyester, polyester-covered polyester core
- Length400 yd per spool
- Spools2
- Amazon ratings4,743
Why it stands out
- Core-spun strength
- Sold almost everywhere, so you can match it next year
- 400 yards per spool
Think twice if
- You want a big color set; Gutermann's 20-pack is the better buy for that
Simthread All Purpose Polyester Thread, 400 yd (white and black)
Simthread was the number 2 seller in Amazon's sewing thread category when we checked. The listing names it core-spun and marks it for sewing and piecing, and it's pitched at everyday repairs on clothes and jeans.
The 30WT label is a good example of why we said to ignore "wt" across brands: this is an all-purpose thread, not a heavy 30 wt quilting thread. Use it like any all-purpose polyester.
- Fiberpolyester, core-spun (per listing)
- Labeled size30WT
- Length400 yd each
- Amazon ratings3,155
Why it stands out
- Low cost for a black and white pair
- Core-spun construction stated on the listing
Think twice if
- You need colors; it's sold mainly in neutrals
- You want the needle size printed on the listing; this one doesn't give it
Gutermann Cotton Thread Spool Box, 26 spools
For piecing a cotton quilt, many quilters want cotton thread, so the seams wear at the same rate as the fabric and press flat under a hot iron. This Gutermann box gives you 26 colors of cotton in a plastic storage case.
The listing doesn't state the thread weight or the length per spool. If you need a known weight, Coats sells a mercerized long-staple Egyptian cotton (Coats & Clark S970 cotton, 2-pack) whose listing gives weight 30 and machine needle 11 or 14.
- Fibercotton
- Spools26, with storage box
- Made inGermany (country of origin DE)
- Amazon ratings599
Why it stands out
- Cotton in 26 colors with a box to keep it dust-free
- From a major thread maker
Think twice if
- You sew knits; cotton has no stretch and seams can snap
- You need the weight on the label before you buy
Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Heavy, 4 spools
A heavier thread for the fabrics that make all-purpose thread look thin: the listing names denim, canvas, duck, upholstery, fleece, faux fur, leather and faux leather. It's also sold for bold topstitching and cording. The needle range is printed right on the listing: 14 (90), 16 (100) or 18 (110).
Use it on top with all-purpose thread in the bobbin, lengthen the stitch to 3.0 mm or more, and test on a scrap first. For the classic gold jeans look, Gutermann sells a six-spool denim thread set whose listing calls it 12wt jeans thread.
- Fiber100% polyester
- Spools4 x 125 yd (black, white, slate, natural)
- Needle (per listing)90, 100 or 110
- Amazon ratings1,915
Why it stands out
- Needle sizes stated
- Four neutral colors that blend with most heavy fabrics
Think twice if
- You sew lightweight garments; it will look coarse and won't pass a small needle
- Your machine is an older lightweight model that struggles with thick layers
Side by side
| Thread | Fiber and build | Yardage | Needle (from listing or maker) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gutermann Sew-All jumbo | Long-staple polyester | 1,094 yd | Universal 70 to 90 | Everyday sewing in one color |
| Gutermann Sew-All 20-pack | Polyester | 20 x 100 m | Universal 70 to 90 | A starter color set |
| Coats Dual Duty | Core-spun polyester | 400 yd each | 70 to 80 (XP General Purpose) | Store-matched colors |
| Simthread all purpose | Core-spun polyester | 400 yd each | Not stated | Low-cost black and white |
| Gutermann cotton box | Cotton | Not stated | Not stated | Quilt piecing |
| Coats XP Heavy | Polyester, heavy | 4 x 125 yd | 90, 100 or 110 | Denim, canvas, upholstery |
Polyester or cotton thread?
Polyester, unless you have a reason. It's stronger than cotton and has a little give, so a seam in a knit or a fitted garment stretches with the fabric instead of snapping. It also holds up to sun and washing.
Cotton earns its place in quilting. It has no stretch, takes a hot iron, and wears at the same rate as cotton quilt fabric, which is why many quilters piece with it. The common split is cotton for piecing and polyester for the quilting itself; our quilting machine guide covers the machine side of that.
Two places cotton is the wrong call: knits, and anything that lives outdoors. Cotton thread on a jersey seam is the classic popped-stitch complaint.
Why the cheap thread kits cause trouble
The best-selling "sewing thread" items on Amazon are 36-color kits with 72 pieces, each spool paired with a matching prewound bobbin. They're tempting. They're also the thread most likely to leave lint in your bobbin area and break mid-seam.
The kits we looked at list "durable polyester" but don't state a weight, a Tex number, a staple length or a needle size, so there's no way to know what you're feeding the machine. Short-fiber thread sheds lint, and lint packed around the bobbin case is a common cause of skipped stitches and nesting. Thread with thick and thin spots breaks at the thin ones. A kit is fine for hand mending. For machine seams, two good spools in neutral colors beat 36 colors you can't trust.
The same goes for the sampler spool that comes in the box with many new machines: use it up on test scraps, then switch.
Bobbin thread and serger cones
Use the same thread in the bobbin as on top for most sewing. Matching weight and fiber keeps the tension balanced, and you can change the bobbin color when the underside won't show. Wind bobbins slowly and evenly; a lumpy bobbin causes the same symptoms as bad tension. If the underside of your seam is a tangle, see thread bunching under the fabric first.
Serger thread is a different product. It comes on big cross-wound cones for a serger's cone holders and is usually finer than all-purpose thread, since a serger stitches with three or four threads at once. It can work in a pinch for a sewing machine bobbin, but for top thread on a regular machine, stick with all-purpose spools. For cones, go to our best serger thread guide.
When thread keeps breaking or shredding
- Change the needle. A dull or too-small needle is the most common cause. For a heavier thread, go up a size.
- Rethread from scratch with the presser foot up, so the thread seats between the tension discs, and make sure it passes through the take-up lever.
- Check the spool. A notch in the spool end can snag thread; turn the spool so the notch is on the side away from the thread path, or use a spool cap.
- Lower the top tension a step and test on a scrap.
- Try a better spool. If an old or no-name thread snaps by hand easily, the thread is the problem.
If stitches skip instead of breaking, that's usually the needle, and our skipped stitches guide goes through it. Brother owners can also check our step-by-step Brother threading guide.
What to buy if you're starting from nothing
One large spool of Gutermann Sew-All or Coats Dual Duty in white, one in black, one in a mid gray, and a pack of 80/12 and 90/14 universal needles. Gray blends into more fabrics than you'd expect. Add colors as projects need them, and add the 20-spool Gutermann set when you're tired of making a trip for every new project.
Thread weight and Tex definitions from Superior Threads. Coats Dual Duty XP needle ranges from QuiltSocial; Gutermann Sew-All Tex 30 and Tkt 100 from retailer spec listings. Product fibers and needle sizes from each Amazon listing and sales from Amazon search, checked October 15, 2026. Prices change often, so the buttons show the current price on Amazon. How we research · Affiliate disclosure