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Sewing machine tension problems: read the stitch, then fix it in this order

Loops underneath, bobbin thread on top, puckered seams. The dial is the last thing to touch. A diagram of what each problem looks like, a six-step check order, and what Brother's own help pages say.

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Most sewing machine tension problems aren't tension problems. They're threading problems. Brother's own help pages say that if the upper or lower thread isn't threaded correctly, the tension can't be adjusted correctly "even by turning the upper tension-control dial." So read the stitch first, then work through six checks in order, and only then touch the dial.

Read the stitch first

In a balanced stitch, the top thread and bobbin thread lock together inside the fabric, between the layers. Brother puts the target simply: only the upper thread should show on the right side, and only the bobbin thread on the wrong side.

Balanced, too tight and too loose stitches in cross-section Three cross-sections of two fabric layers. Balanced: the thread lock sits between the layers. Upper too tight: the bobbin thread is pulled to the top surface. Upper too loose: the top thread is pulled through and loops on the underside. Balanced Upper too tight Upper too loose Lock (dot) insidethe fabric. Bobbin thread dotsshow on top. Top thread loopson the underside. top thread bobbin thread
Sew a test on two layers of the real fabric with different colored top and bobbin threads. The color that shows on the wrong side tells you which way the balance is off.
What you seeMost likely causeFirst fixThen
Loops or a nest of top thread underneathTop thread not in the tension discsRaise the foot, rethread the topBunching guide
Bobbin thread dots on topUpper tension too tight, or bobbin misthreadedRethread the bobbin and topLower the dial half a number
Top thread lying flat underneathUpper tension too looseRethread the topRaise the dial half a number
Seam puckers on light fabricTension too high, or needle/stitch too bigSmaller needle, shorter stitchLower the dial one number
Thread keeps breakingNeedle too small for the thread, burr, or poor threadNew needle a size upCheck the spool and thread path
Skipped stitchesNeedle (bent, dull, wrong type)New needle of the right typeSkipping stitches guide
Good, then suddenly badLint, bobbin running low or wound unevenlyClean discs and bobbin areaRewind the bobbin

Fix it in this order

  1. Rethread the top with the presser foot up. Raising the foot opens the tension discs so the thread can drop between them. Threaded with the foot down, the thread sits on top of the discs and gets almost no tension, which gives you loops underneath. Follow the whole path, including the take-up lever, then lower the foot.
  2. Check the bobbin. Take it out. It should be wound evenly and firmly, not spongy, and be the right type for your machine (see what bobbin your machine uses). Drop it back in turning the direction your manual shows, and pull the thread through the tension slot until it clicks.
  3. Put in a new needle. A bent or dull needle drags thread and mimics tension trouble. Match size and type to the fabric with our needle sizes chart.
  4. Clean the lint. Remove the needle plate and brush out the feed dogs and bobbin area. Then run a strip of thin cloth between the tension discs with the foot raised, the way you'd floss teeth.
  5. Sew a test seam. Two layers of the actual fabric, medium stitch length, different thread colors top and bottom if you have them. Check both sides.
  6. Only now, turn the dial. Half a number at a time, one test seam per change, and change nothing else between tests.

If tension keeps drifting, check the thread before the dial. Old or uneven thread causes a lot of it; here's which sewing machine thread to use.

Brother's help page for bobbin thread showing on top follows the same logic: check threading first, then turn the upper tension dial to a lower number. On some Brother models, if the knob's red line is showing, you're at the minimum and the fix is on the bobbin side instead.

Tension dial settings

Most dials run 0 to 9 with the default near the middle. Higher numbers tighten the upper thread, lower numbers loosen it. Your manual's default is the right starting point for regular thread on cotton; if you need to go more than a number or so away from it for ordinary sewing, look for a threading, needle or bobbin problem instead.

Fabric or jobNeedleTension change from default
Quilting cotton, shirtingUniversal 80/12None
Knits, jerseyBallpoint or stretch 75/11 to 90/14None, or half a number lower if it puckers
Denim, canvasJeans 90/14 to 100/16Usually none; lengthen the stitch
Topstitching thread on topTopstitch or one size upOften half to one number lower
Satin stitch, dense zigzagUniversal or embroiderySlightly lower so the top pulls to the back
Quilt sandwichQuilting 75/11 to 90/14Test on a scrap sandwich first

You'll see advice to turn tension up for thick fabric. Don't start there. Thick layers already add drag, so raising tension usually puckers the seam or snaps the thread. Lengthen the stitch and use a bigger needle first.

Two fabric test scraps side by side, one with a smooth seam and one puckered
Keep your test scraps. Pinning the good one to the machine's manual saves a lot of guessing next time.

When to touch bobbin tension

Almost never on a drop-in machine. Most Brother and Singer home machines hold the bobbin in a case that stays in the machine, and the factory setting is right for normal thread. Front-loading machines (many Janome mechanicals, older Singers) use a removable metal case, and there's a simple check for those: hold the case by its thread with the bobbin inside. It should hang without sliding, then drop an inch or two when you give a small jerk. If it slides freely, it's too loose; if it won't drop at all, it's too tight.

If you must adjust, photograph or mark the screw first, turn it a quarter turn or less (clockwise tightens), and test. Quilters on machines with L-style bobbin cases, such as Juki TL machines and longarms, can measure instead of guessing with a Towa bobbin tension gauge for L-style bobbins.

Brand notes

  • Brother: most models have a drop-in bobbin and a numbered upper dial. If the bobbin thread pulls to the top, Brother's first step is rethreading the bobbin. Bigger nests and tangles are in our bobbin thread bunching guide; error messages are in Brother error codes.
  • Singer Heavy Duty: same drop-in design. The usual culprits are a bobbin inserted the wrong way round and the top thread missing the take-up lever. See Singer Heavy Duty problems.
  • Sergers work differently, with four tension dials. Use our Brother 1034D tension settings guide.

When it's time for a technician

Book a service if stitches stay unbalanced after all six steps with a fresh needle and good thread, if the dial turns but nothing changes, if the bobbin case is cracked or the screw won't hold, or if you hear grinding or clicking as the stitch forms. Between services, a drop of oil where the manual shows it keeps things smooth; see which sewing machine oil to use.

A small tension toolkit

Sources: Brother USA help pages on bobbin thread showing on top and adjusting upper thread tension, and Brother's support FAQ on thread tension, read October 13, 2026. Product details come from the Amazon listings the same day. How we research · Affiliate disclosure

Questions people ask

What number should my sewing machine tension be on?
Start at your manual's default, which on most home machines is near the middle of the dial. Sew a test, then move half a number at a time. If you find yourself far from the middle, something else is wrong, usually threading or the needle.
Why is the bobbin thread showing on top of my fabric?
Brother's help pages say bobbin thread on the right side means the upper thread is too tight. Before turning the dial down, rethread both the top and the bobbin, because Brother also notes that wrong threading makes the dial useless. If it's still there, lower the upper tension half a number at a time.
Why are there loops on the underside of my fabric?
Loops of top thread underneath almost always mean the top thread isn't seated between the tension discs. Raise the presser foot (which opens the discs), rethread the whole upper path, then lower the foot and test. Our bobbin thread bunching guide covers the big tangles.
Should I adjust the bobbin tension?
Rarely. On drop-in machines like most Brothers and Singers, the bobbin case lives in the machine and its screw is set at the factory. Change it only after the top threading, needle, bobbin and upper dial have all been checked, and then a quarter turn or less at a time, after marking where the screw started.
What tension should I use for stretchy fabric or denim?
Usually the same setting, with the right needle. Knits need a ballpoint or stretch needle and a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag; lower the upper tension half a number if seams pucker. Denim needs a jeans needle and a longer stitch. Turning tension up for thick fabric is a common mistake and often makes thick seams pucker or break thread.
Why does my sewing machine tension keep changing?
Lint packed in the tension discs or bobbin area, a thread that catches on the spool's notch, a bobbin wound unevenly, or a cheap thread that varies in thickness. Clean the discs and bobbin area, use quality thread, and wind bobbins at a steady speed.